
TOP
10 TIPS FOR
BACK to MONO
USING
WAVE EDITORS
All
too often we pay big bucks for music which is supposed to sound better than we
remember, only to be bitterly
disappointed by badly mixed thin-sounding versions of songs we remember as anything
but. Stereo – and our demand for it - is a major part of the problem. This is
despite the fact that the greatest record producer of all time – Phil Spector –
was largely ignored in his thirty-year-long BACK to MONO campaign. With the resurgence in popularity and respect for Mono, we now find ourselves in a situation where many great Monaural mixes
have been lost or destroyed in pandering to an erroneous Stereo obsession.
A Stereo recording is at its best nothing more than
someone’s idea of what “reality” should sound like. Since great records have more to do with sonic
artistry than reality we’re probably wise to question the place of Stereo in a
producer’s vision of the finished product.
Prior to the 1970s, great records lived and died by how
great they sounded in Monaural – AM radio, car radios and kids’ record players.
A well-produced record had to meet these criteria. It was a Mono mentality with a Monaural final
mix as the
high point
of the entire exercise of record production. In many instances no True Stereo
version was ever recorded or envisaged, and the “Stereo Version” was often
merely an unfinished version of a mono recording handled by an assistant
engineer as a non-priority album track. Two tracks do not constitute True Stereo.
It’s not however the purpose of this site to demonize Stereo
per se. Far from it – Spector himself has continued to produce outstanding Stereo recordings of breadth and intensity
since 1969. In fact you may find the
tools here very useful for adding a
Stereo effect to enhance Monaural recordings.
The following tips are designed to help you use
readily-available technology to hear your music the way you want to hear it.
Think of your computer as a part of your sound system!
BEFORE NOISE REMOVAL
#1. Carefully choose your monitor speakers.
It
is of prime importance that your
monitors are sensitive across the entire sound spectrum, including your sub-woofer. What sounds acceptable on your monitors should sound spectacular on your
home or car system.
#2. Make
sure your turntable is optimally “tuned”
for cartridge balance, bias and grounding. Check stylis for grime deposits and wear.
I’ve always cleaned vinyl with shampoo-for-oily-hair and a cosmetic wedge
against the direction of groove play. Rinse very thoroughly with warm not hot water. Air dry out of the sun, or with a lint-free cloth. After
cleaning, play the record and check
whether the stylis kicks up any dislodged grime: if so, then clean again. Avoid
alcohol-based cleaners and keep your nails trimmed…
#3. Double-check
entire wiring set-up for correct and consistent Left & Right channel
configuration.
Your turntable-to-computer sound card leads should
be quality: read more about shielded audio cables here.
NOISE REMOVAL
(ProTools, Cool Edit/ Adobe Audition, Gold Wave etc are fine
software but try using an inexpensive, no-frills (but close to studio-quality)
application like Clive Clive Backhams's Wave Repair for critical ripping, editing and noise removal, Additionally the WR software player is paticularly accurate.
You can use Nero Wave Editor and Roxio etc for noise and scratch removal but
the results will be so-so - See Tip # 5 (note: Vista & Windows 7 issues with Wave Repair can be worked around by going here)
disabel
This is Wave Repair workspace with a Stereo WAV file loaded:

#4. If your vinyl source is Mono, and your turntable cartridge is Mono or stereo
your recording will nevertheless show up on your computer as
a Stereo 2-channel WAV file. It’s important that you now choose whether Left or
Right sounds best. (The amount of wear and/or pressing quality on each side of
a vinyl groove will differ, as possibly
will your turntable pick-up qualities.)
USING Wave Repair, NOW
MOVE THE BEST CHANNEL ACROSS TO REPLACE THE OTHER. (Blocks/Copy L to R, or R to
L) Your music file is now
best-sounding true Monaural, and you’ve cut your editing time in half.
#5. Avoid aggressive automated filtering for noise & scratch removal: optimal results are best achieved by:
s includes automated scratch removal,
filtering aning (Equalization). You’ll retain the warmth of vinyl – not to
mention
OpOOOoo
1. Sampling
“fingerprints” from run-in and run-out grooves, and “silent” areas between LP
tracks.
2. Manually removing clicks by
editing your Wave form by Deleting (cracks) or Redrawing wave.
A tinny and hollow fade-out is a sure sign
of Digital Overkill. If you’re a newbie to Vinyl-Digital transfers, burn your work onto CDRW and play
back on your main sound system as you progress thru the stages. Be patient on
your learning curve – it’s entirely possible to create recordings from vinyl
which sound far superior to some commercial CD versions.
#6. Don't overload by working "in the red". Watch that VU meter!
It’s much better to boost the overall
volume of your finished job than to have to start again because you have “sonic boom”, clipping and problems with crossover. Work near
the top end of the green range.
USING NERO WAVE EDITOR
* Many older pop records were sped up during mastering for radio time
constraints and to iron out vocalizing
flaws, creating an off-pitch tinny sound without much range or “presence”. You can undo this by
using Tools/Time Correction if those girl-group epics sound more like The
Chipmunks than Uncle Phil.
*
Effects/Voice
Modification & Effects/Pitch Tuning may be of use for an off-key vocalist but
these Effects should only be applied to the entire file, and are best avoided.
*
If the original producer has gone
overboard with Reverb it can be
partially removed by going to Enhancement/Band
Extrapolation (Spectral Remixer). I use this application in reverse for
reverb removal by creating a “wet” mix which enhances what I want to hear (in
High & Low Cut-off Frequencies) and then I add the Dry Signal carefully. Effects/Reverb unfortunately won’t
remove excessive reverb, nor will it create a Wall of Sound where none exists.
This IS however a filtration application and - as with all filters - may remove
some of the music.
Nero Wave Editor allows insertion of audio files – Wave Repair
does not.
Wave Repair allows you to fully edit both Left & Right Channels separately – Nero Wave
Editor does not.
CREATING A DYNAMIC MONOMIX FROM STEREO
#7. If your source is True Stereo or 60's 2-track (i.e. rhythm on on track & vocals on the other:

The file above is Bill Medley’s “I
Surrender” (1963 Reprise). The entire instrumental track is on the right
channel (lower Wave form) and Bill’s vocals are entirely on the left (upper Wave
form ):
1. Open Nero Wave Editor. Open and highlight your WAV or mp3 file.
/Go
to Tools/ Stereo Processor. Set Phase Offset to Zero (0).
(”StereoBroadening” default is 51% - get
in the habit of checking it.)
2. In
the “Left Out” box: Set Left In slider to 100% and Right In slider to 0%
.
In the “Right Out” box do the exact
opposite: Left In slider to zero, Right In to slider 100%. (See illustration above)
3. Test
your settings by clicking on “Preview” and alternating “Bypass” On / Off -
There should be no difference between On
and Off settings.
4. Gradually bring up both inner sliders that are at 0%. When they’re also
at 100% you have Mono.
Check your main VU meter (bottom left) for
overload, and adjust ALL SLIDERS EQUALLY
downwards as needed.
5. Now perform adjustments (Stereo Broadening etc) and compensations for things like sonic
boom and
vocal volume etc. but keep your Mono mentality. (You can of course go
Mono Lite with +51% Stereo Broadening if
you prefer...)
Here’s what “I Surrender” looks like in
Mono. The best mixdown had all sliders set at 75% - it would have been less if
compression was being added. The bass line is solid but smooth with no
crossover problems, and the vocal blends nicely (a little forward, 60’s-style)
with the backing track.
#8. If your source is in-phase fake stereo created by extreme EQing of 2 mono channels
you may need to use Enhancement / Band Extrapolation on
either or both channels separately prior to performing # 7. Check first if one
channel has an acceptable dynamic range – it may be better to perform Tip # 4
instead of, or before, proceeding to # 7.
#9. If your source is out-of-phase or time-delay fake stereo
you
can try using Phase Offset or you can load each channel separately on Nero Sound
Trax and attempt to rematch before performing #7. This is tedious and may not
work because no two tape machines ever consistently recorded or played back at
consistently the same speed – before you attempt this check if one of the
channels is acceptable Mono and
perform Tip # 4 instead of # 7.
#10. To create a punchy Mono mixdown master:

Use
Tools / Dynamic Processor in NERO after creating your Monomix.
Right-click on any point in the range
line in the
‘Characteristics” box to drag an
increase / decrease in compression – left-click to delete that point. Use
Attack- and Release-Times judiciously.
The compression facility in Wave
Repair is less
aggressive than NERO.
Practice using this application properly
and you will have masters that ‘Sixties producers could only dream about…